RIA VRBP 100: Getting Started

The Rock Island Armory VRBP 100 is a magazine fed bullpup shotgun that is still relatively new to the market. It has alot of familiar features and ergonomics to other platforms on the market, yet it is in its own category altogether.

CONTENTS LIST

The RIA VRBP 100 is a well stocked shotgun out of the box. My hat is off to Rock Island for providing such a generous package for the shooter right away. In the box you can expect:
-The shotgun
-2 5rd magazines
-case w/ a set of 3 chokes(full, modified, cylinder) with choke tool
-3 stock extensions w/smaller screw
-"HEAVY" gas piston
-disassembly tool
-gun towel
-owners manual
-gun lock

ADJUSTING THE STOCK LENGTH

When you first get the shotgun out of the box, you will notice that the stock has all the extra stock extenders already installed. I found that the best course of action for me was to remove the three extra extenders and just leave the rubber pad on. This will require your disassembly tool, and a Phillips head screwdriver. For me, this gives the shotgun a shorter length overall, and also makes it less awkward in the shoulder. With all the extenders on, the stock pad angles downward and below the bore axis, which could provide for some uncomfortable recoil in the shoulder.

CHOKE ADJUSTMENT

One of the most important things for me to square away with this shotgun is making sure that my choke is fully open so that I am safe to shoot slugs. The VRBP 100 comes with the "MODIFIED" choke already installed, which is not recommended for use with slugs. The only choke I would use in this barrel is the "CYLINDER" choke, though it is said to only be good for close range use, it is the only one I can use slugs with. Thankfully, the manufacturer provides a choke tool specifically for loosening and tightening. Just be aware that your selected choke may loosen up when shooting.

The next step is to use your disassembly tool to take down the shotgun and get to work on cleaning all the parts. Once this is finished, it would be wise to lubricate all friction points in order to prepare the shotgun for the break in period and reduce unnecessary friction and wear.

While the shotgun is disassembled, you will have the ability to change your gas piston from the"LIGHT" piston to the "HEAVY" piston if you wish to start off by shooting stout 3" shells. However, I would hold off on shooting 3" shells until after the break in period.

After you have cleaned and lubed the inner workings of the shotgun, my recommendation is to start with dry firing. Dry fire is not going to do much for the shotgun as far as break in time, but it does help you get accustomed to the manual of arms. Best thing you can do is familiarize yourself with the safety, magazine release, bolt release, and trigger. Work on your magazine changes, reloads, malfunction drills, safety manipulations, etc.

BREAK-IN PROCESS

It is not uncommon for some weapons to need a break-in procedure depending on how it is sprung and how it is fitted together. However, these days people are unaccustomed to seeing firearms that have malfunctions so frequently, even during break-in.​ Do not be so discouraged by these malfunctions when you first start shooting your shotgun. Start out with something like buckshot and slugs for the first 50 to 100 shells. After this, you should be good to use lighter practice loads. However, it would seem that you need to start out hot in order to get the gas system where it needs to be. 

At first, even the hotter buckshot and slugs will barely cycle the action. In fact, they will more than likely fail to eject at first. My guess is because the fowling takes time to build up around the piston and create a tight seal that allows more of the gas to push against the piston to cycle the action, rather than leak off around the piston. Personally, I enjoy the slightly increased kick from the hotter loads, though they still have less recoil than what I experienced with my Remington 870.